Tennis Strings Buying Guide & String Tension Chart
Quick answer: Most racquets are designed for about 50–60 lbs of string tension, and the exact range is printed on the frame. Start in the middle of that range for synthetic gut, multifilament or natural gut, and about 2 lbs lower (up to 10% lower) for polyester. Drop 2–3 lbs for more power and comfort, or raise 2–3 lbs for more control.
There are two kinds of tennis players when it comes to strings. Either you don’t care at all, or you care passionately and non-negotiably about what goes in your racquet. Either way, this guide will help you through the terminology, the tension debate and the choices, so you can find the right string for your game.
What tension should I string my tennis racquet at?
Start with the tension range the manufacturer prints on your racquet, usually around 50–60 lbs. Then use your string type to pick a starting point:
| String type | Best for | Starting point | Example on a 50–60 lb racquet |
|---|---|---|---|
| Synthetic gut (nylon) | Beginners, value, all-around play | Middle of the printed range | About 55 lbs |
| Multifilament | Comfort, power, arm-friendly play | Middle of the printed range | About 55 lbs |
| Natural gut | Best feel and comfort, holds tension best | Middle of the printed range | About 55 lbs |
| Polyester / co-poly | Advanced big hitters, spin, string breakers | 2 lbs below the middle, or 5–10% lower than you’d use for gut/nylon | About 50–53 lbs |
| Kevlar / aramid | Chronic string breakers | 10–15% lower than gut/nylon | About 47–50 lbs |
| Hybrid (poly mains, gut or multi crosses) | Spin plus comfort | Poly about 5% lower than the softer string | About 52 lbs mains / 55 lbs crosses |
These are starting points, not rules. Tension is personal preference: tour pros string anywhere from the 30s to 70+ lbs. Stringing above the manufacturer’s maximum may void the frame warranty.
How do I adjust string tension for power, control or comfort?
The basic rule: lower tension = more power and comfort, with a bigger sweet spot. Higher tension = more control. Change tension 2–3 lbs at a time, so you can feel the difference.
| Your goal or conditions | Adjustment | Why |
|---|---|---|
| More power or depth | Lower by 2–3 lbs | A looser string bed gives more trampoline effect. |
| More control | Raise by 2–3 lbs | A firmer string bed lets you supply the power and direct the ball. |
| Arm comfort or tennis elbow | Lower tension plus a soft string (multifilament or natural gut) | Softer string beds send less shock to the arm. High tension and stiff poly are harder on the arm. |
| Slow courts (clay, Har-Tru) | Lower by 2–5 lbs | Adds depth and pace on a surface that soaks up ball speed. |
| Hot weather or high altitude | Raise by 2–5 lbs | The ball flies faster, so you need more control. |
| Cold or damp weather | Lower by 2–5 lbs | The ball feels heavier and slower. |
| Tension band | What you get |
|---|---|
| Low: 40–50 lbs | More power, depth and spin potential, and a softer feel. Less control on fast shots. Common for polyester. |
| Medium: 50–60 lbs | A balance of power and control that suits most players and string types. |
| High: 60+ lbs | More control and precision for players who make their own power. Less power and comfort, and harder on the arm. |
All strings lose tension as you play, so they need regular replacement even if they never break. Polyester loses tension faster than nylon or natural gut. The debate over exactly what happens when the ball hits the string bed is passionate and ongoing. What matters is how the string plays for you.
What are the main types of tennis strings?
Strings are made from three main materials: nylon, polyester and natural gut. Each has its own strengths. For a deeper side-by-side comparison, see our guide to tennis string types.
Synthetic gut
Synthetic gut, or “syngut,” is usually the lowest-cost string and the most widely used, and it’s the standard in pre-strung racquets. It’s made of nylon, it lasts for many matches, and it plays well all around. Some advanced players say it has less power than other types.
Multifilament
Multifilament is also nylon, but instead of a single core it’s made of hundreds of tiny fibers twisted together. It costs a bit more and doesn’t last as long, but it’s softer on the arm and absorbs shock better on off-center hits. That makes it a great choice for tennis elbow, and it adds power too.
Polyester (co-poly)
Polyester, or “co-poly,” is really for advanced players who make their own power. It’s stiff and tough on the elbow, but it lasts. For big hitters who are always breaking strings, it can save money. Shaped polys add spin potential. Polyester won’t give you power. You have to do the work.
Natural gut
Natural gut (today generally made from cow intestine) has earned its reputation as the do-it-all string. It’s the best for power, comfort, feel and holding tension, but it costs more than other strings, and it can still pop in damp conditions.
Which tennis string is best for my level?
Not all strings are made for every player. Here are five things to consider:
- Your ability. If you’re new to tennis, a quality synthetic gut is usually best: good all-around playability at a reasonable price. If you want more power, spend a little more on a multifilament. Intermediates often move to multifilament for power and comfort. Many intermediate and advanced players choose polyester or natural gut. Lean toward natural gut if your game is control-oriented.
- Power, control or arm comfort? You want it all, but put your needs in order. If you’re playing with constant arm pain, it’s probably worth going all the way to natural gut. See our best racquets for tennis elbow post too.
- Your budget. Synthetic gut is the best value. Natural gut costs the most, but it holds its tension longest when kept dry, so it can pay off over time.
- Weather and playing style. If you play in high humidity or on damp clay, natural gut may break too easily. If you’re an advanced basher, polyester is probably your string.
- Color. It doesn’t matter. With the same brand, model and gauge, color doesn’t change how a string plays. Some players think a string color close to the ball’s makes it harder for opponents to read the ball. Others think dark strings help disguise shots.
What string gauge should I use?
Gauge is string thickness: the higher the number, the thinner the string. Thinner strings give more power and spin but break sooner. Thicker strings give more control and durability. An “L” (light) gauge, such as 16L, falls halfway between two numbers. Brands don’t measure gauges the same way, so compare millimeters.
| Gauge | Approx. diameter | Plays like |
|---|---|---|
| 15 | 1.35–1.40 mm | Thickest; most durable; least spin |
| 16 | 1.25–1.30 mm | All-around standard |
| 17 | 1.20–1.25 mm | More feel, power and spin |
| 18 | 1.15–1.20 mm | Thin; maximum feel and spin; breaks sooner |
How often should I restring my tennis racquet?
A widely used rule of thumb: restring as many times a year as you play each week. If you play three times a week, restring at least three times a year. If you use polyester, restring more often, because it loses tension faster. Don’t wait for a string to break. Once strings go “dead,” you lose power, control and feel. More detail: How often should you restring your tennis racquet?
What strings do the pros use?
At the highest level, many pros combine natural gut in one direction with polyester in the other. This is called hybrid stringing. It’s available to every player and is getting more popular with intermediates, though it can cost more. See our guide to hybrid stringing for details.
How do I find the right string and tension for me?
Experiment. The best way is to take two identical racquets, string them with two different options you think might work, and hit with both. Then experiment with tension and gauge. You’ll feel and see the differences. Once you find your string, stick with it, but keep an eye out for new materials. This is a fast-moving category.
Where can I get my racquet strung?
TennisRacquets.com is fully equipped to handle your stringing. When you buy a new racquet, use the custom stringing options on the racquet page to choose your string and tension. If you’re local to Michigan, use our online stringing service and drop off your racquet whenever it suits you. See all our racquet services, including string consultations.
Shop tennis strings, bumper guards and tennis racquets. Call us with questions. We love to help.
Frequently asked questions
Is 55 lbs a good string tension?
For most racquets, yes. Many frames list a 50–60 lb range, so 55 lbs is the middle and a good starting point for synthetic gut, multifilament or natural gut. If you use polyester, start a little lower, around 50–53 lbs, and adjust 2–3 lbs at a time.
Should polyester strings be strung at a lower tension?
Yes. Polyester is stiffer than nylon or gut, so it’s usually strung about 2 lbs below the middle of the racquet’s range, or 5–10% lower than you would string a softer string. In a hybrid, string the poly about 5% lower than the soft cross string.
Does lower string tension give more power?
Yes. Lower tension makes the string bed more elastic, which gives more power and comfort and a larger sweet spot. The trade-off is less control. Higher tension gives more control and less power.
What strings are best for tennis elbow?
Soft strings at a low-to-medium tension are kindest to the arm. Natural gut is the most comfortable, and multifilament is the more affordable alternative. Stiff polyester strings, especially at high tension, are harder on the elbow.
How often should I restring my racquet?
A common rule of thumb is to restring as many times a year as you play per week. Twice a week means at least twice a year. Polyester loses tension faster, so restring it more often. Don’t wait for strings to break.
Does string color affect performance?
No. With the same brand, model and gauge, color does not change how a string plays. Choose color by personal preference.
How do I choose a tennis string?
Start with your priorities. Beginners usually do best with synthetic gut, an affordable all-rounder. If you want more comfort or power, choose a multifilament or natural gut. If you break strings often or hit with heavy spin, try polyester or a poly hybrid. Then choose a tension in the middle of your racquet’s range and adjust 2–3 lbs at a time. Our string types guide compares each option.
Do tennis strings really make a difference?
Yes. Strings are the only part of the racquet that touches the ball, so string type, gauge and tension all change power, control, spin and comfort. The same racquet can feel completely different with a soft multifilament at low tension versus a stiff polyester at high tension. Fresh strings also play better than old, dead ones.
Do tennis strings lose tension if I don’t play?
Yes. All strings start losing tension as soon as they are strung, with the biggest drop in the first day, and they keep relaxing even while the racquet sits in your bag. Heat speeds this up, so avoid leaving racquets in a hot car. Polyester loses tension faster than nylon or natural gut, which is why poly users should restring more often.
Why do my tennis strings keep breaking?
The most common causes are heavy topspin, which makes the main strings saw against the crosses; thin gauges; soft multifilaments that fray; and open string patterns. Try a thicker gauge (16 instead of 17), a more durable string such as polyester, or a poly hybrid. If strings break in the same spot near the frame, have the grommets checked for damage.
How do I know if my tennis strings are dead?
Dead strings have lost much of their tension and elasticity. Signs include balls flying long or feeling hard to control, a harsh or “boardy” feel, less spin, and main strings that stay out of place instead of snapping back. Fraying or deep notches where the strings cross mean they are close to breaking. If your strings feel different than when they were fresh, it is time to restring.
How long does it take to string a tennis racquet?
The stringing itself is typically a job of well under an hour for an experienced stringer, but shop turnaround depends on the queue. At our Royal Oak, Michigan store, we offer standard stringing and a 1-hour stringing service for up to two racquets per customer. See racquet services for details.
How much string do I need to string a tennis racquet?
A single set of tennis string is usually about 40 feet (about 12 meters), which is enough for one racquet. Larger heads and denser patterns, like 18x20, use more string than small heads and open patterns. Players who restring often sometimes buy reels, which hold enough string for many racquets and cost less per stringing. Shop tennis strings.
How much weight do strings add to a racquet?
Strings typically add about 15–20 grams (roughly 0.5–0.7 oz). For example, the Babolat Pure Drive is listed at 300 g unstrung, and Tennis Warehouse measured a strung test frame at 318 g. That is why it matters whether a spec sheet lists a racquet’s weight strung or unstrung when you compare models.
What string tension should a beginner use?
Start in the middle of the tension range printed on your racquet, which is about 55 lbs for most frames, with a synthetic gut or multifilament string. If you want more power and comfort, go 2–3 lbs lower. Beginners usually do not need polyester. Keep the same setup for a while before changing, so you can feel the difference.
How much does it cost to string a tennis racquet?
The total is the labor charge plus the cost of the string, so the price depends mainly on the string you choose. Synthetic gut is the most affordable option, multifilament and polyester cost more, and natural gut costs the most. See current stringing prices and options on our racquet services page.
Does the string pattern change how strings play?
Yes. An open pattern such as 16x19 lets the strings move more for extra spin and power, but strings wear out faster. A dense 18x20 pattern plays firmer, gives more control and makes strings last longer. Many players string a dense pattern a little lower. See our 16x19 vs. 18x20 guide.